The objective is to experiment with the lifter technology modeled on
the work of Transdimensional Technologies (whose former website was
http://www.tdimension.com though it no longer exists.)
The lifter is a typically triangular shaped, lightweight device capable of
lifting its own weight.
However, it cannot also lift the weight of its high voltage power supply
that powers it.
The basic components are two conductive electrodes, one having a thin edge
(usually a very thin, bare copper wire on the order of 30 to 50 AWG/gauge),
and the other having a smooth edge (usually aluminium foil.) The rigid structure
is typically make of very thin balsa wood sticks (around 2mm or 1/16" thick)
or straws. Glues such as
krazy glue (filler type) or cyanoacrylate are very effective for holding it
together while not requiring much and also being lightweight. Voltages needed
to power it are typically 20kV and higher. Most experimenters use a
modified computer monitor as the
high voltage power supply as most are capable of supplying around 28kV.
There is much dispute and many theories for what makes it fly. Everything is
claimed from antigravity, ether reaction forces to more conventional ion wind
and ion cloud theories. The ion wind theory has been disproven with
experimentally veroified mathematics a few times as giving insufficient thrust. The
theory that has the most experimentally verified mathematical support is the ion
cloud theory (see Leon Tribe's calculations below though others have also provided
mathematical support for this theory.)
Devices, Experiments and Calculations
Other Research on Lifters
One of Russell Anderson's beamships before takeoff.
Unfortunately I accidentally deleted my picture of it in flight while
it was still in my camera. See
the link to his website above for this.
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A Little Lifter Construction Advice
- Make your lifter as light as possible. A three-sided triangle lifter
typically needs to be on the order of 2 grams to be light enough to fly.
This is a rough benchmark as there are many parameters, but is good
for most newbies. Both heavy and light aluminium foil is available in the
grocery stores. Use the light one. I use balsa wood sticks which are
about 1.5mm (1/16") square when looked at from the end. These are available
from hobby shops. My wire is 30 AWG (American Wire Gauge) or thinner.
The higher the number the thinner the wire. Another source of weight is
the glue that you use. Hot glue tends to be used in big globs and adds
weight. Cyanoacrylate glue, Krazy Glue or Superglue work well.
- The thinner the wire the better the result. Typically 30 AWG (American Wire
Gauge) or thinner is used. The higher the number the thinner the wire.
The wire must be bare, no insulation. "Magnet wire" has a thin coat
of insulating material which can be stripped off with sandpaper, or the
edge of a sharp knife (be careful not to break the wire) or by dipping
in paint thinner. Magnet wire is available in rolls but can also be
found as coils in various electronic devices. Thin bare wire is also
available in roles. You can also
get wire by stripping a plastic insulated wire that is made up of many
strands. Don't worry about roughing the surface of the wire with sandpaper.
A rougher surface is
better since it will ionize the surrounding air more.
- The top edge of the foil must be rounded, as in the drawing above.
If it's not then you will ionize the air at that top edge. The ions
will be attracted to the wire. Meanwhile, ions from the wire will be
moving toward the foil. The end result will be a conductive purple/blue
corona between the foil and wire. This corona is like electrically
connecting the foil to the wire. Your voltage will be very low and you'll
get no lift. You want ionization at the wire, not the top of the foil.
Again, see the picture above.
- Arcing, or sparks, are a bad thing and are an indication that you should
increase the distance between the wire and the foil. Arcs also blow tiny
holes in the top of the foil. This causes the top of the foil to be more
leaky, as if it had a sharp edge.
